They are known as Genoese, but these shortcrust pastry and cream desserts originate from Sicily. A visit to the medieval village of Erice is incomplete without stopping at the local pastry shop, which has revitalized these historic desserts. These treats were first created in a cloistered convent and are linked to the sailors who travelled between Genoa and Trapani. Genoa, a city renowned for its great navigators and traders, has a distinct culinary history and has significantly influenced the gastronomy of other cities. Aside from the famous Genoese sauce—made with onions and beef, which has become a staple in Neapolitan cuisine—there is another dish that has made this Sicilian village even more renowned and intriguing. Though popular in the broader area between Trapani and Palermo, the shortcrust pastry and custard desserts sharing the same name specifically hail from the enchanting village of Erice.
Those who come from Trapani to visit the alleys and medieval monuments of panoramic Erice cannot avoid visiting Maria Grammatico's pastry shop. Born in the capital and left fatherless at a very young age, she was sent to the Convent of San Carlo, a cloistered religious structure where she had the opportunity to learn about convent pastry making - which produced many sweets from the Sicilian repertoire - for 15 years. Here she also learned to make Genovesi, a large pastry whose name is said to be inspired by the shape of the headgear of Genoese sailors. And this delicious pastry has since become a staple for breakfast and snacks among both Sicilians and tourists.
How to prepare the Erice Genoese Pastry
Genoese desserts, like many ancient treats, are known for their simplicity and rich flavour. They have a unique characteristic in how the pastry is made, using a combination of durum or re-milled wheat semolina and 00 flour. The process begins with a traditional custard made from egg yolks, sugar, milk, butter, and lemon zest. Next, you prepare the pastry casing by mixing icing sugar, flour, cold butter, eggs, and lemon zest, along with a crucial pinch of salt. After the mixture has rested, it is rolled out to a thickness of a few millimetres using a rolling pin and then folded over a heart of custard. Using a pastry cutter or a circular mould, shape the pastry as desired before baking it in the oven. It is important to note that the Genoese should only brown at the base and should be topped with a generous dusting of icing sugar before serving. Here also the link to recipe video.
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