The Italian government has intervened to save Rome's oldest café, Antico Caffè Greco, from imminent closure. Located near the Spanish Steps in the heart of the Italian capital, this café first opened its doors in 1760 and was once a gathering place for renowned poets such as Lord Byron and John Keats. Over the years, artists, intellectuals, and writers like Mark Twain and Johann Wolfgang von Goethe frequented the café to exchange ideas, making it a must-visit destination during the Grand Tour for affluent Europeans in the 18th and 19th centuries. However, the historic building has faced challenges in recent years due to redevelopment plans by its owner, the Israelite Hospital. With the government's reassurance, and under the new management the Café's glorious history can continue.
A recent high court ruling that allowed for the café's closure appeared to seal its fate. Fortunately, the Ministry of Culture intervened at the last moment, declaring the café's structure to have "cultural interest" and stating that both the furniture and furnishings are "immovable." Italy’s culture minister emphasized the café's significance, describing it as a "historic jewel." He indicated that his ministry would act as a mediator to find a solution that would ensure the café's survival, asserting, "The importance of Caffé Greco cannot be ignored."
The café's lease expired in September 2017, and at that time, the management indicated that the owners intended to raise the rent to match that of luxury boutiques in the surrounding area. Known for its lavish “red room,” the café hosts 300 works of art, along with marble tables, velvet chairs, art deco lamps, and gilt mirrors. Tourism Rome describes the café as “an emblem of international Rome” and a place where “the most brilliant minds have found inspiration.”
With a change in the operational management, one can only hope that the quality of food and drink will improve, as it has deteriorated dramatically over the years. Like many historic cafés in Italy, the food and beverage offerings have not lived up to their past fame and unique history. This is truly unfortunate, as Italian cuisine is world-famous, and even some of the most basic café bars in Italy offer the freshest pastries and stunning tramezzini. For the moment, at least, the city, its residents, and tourists can continue to enjoy coffee at Caffè Greco, served in elegant gold and orange-streaked China. We can only hope that the quality of food and beverages at Caffè Greco with the new Operator will be upgraded to justify their prices.
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