Mandarins originate from Sicily and are known for ripening late in the season, making them particularly popular among pastry chefs. One standout variety is the Ciaculli mandarin, which grows in the Conca d'Oro, a large agricultural area surrounding Palermo. This mandarin matures later than others and possesses unique taste and characteristics that make it especially suitable for desserts. The region not only boasts magnificent Byzantine mosaics but also the lush countryside that surrounds Palermo. In the Conca d'Oro, which once spanned nearly 15,000 hectares, a continuous expanse of citrus groves flourished. These orchards climbed the terraces of dry stone walls, supported by a network of wells and pumps to ensure a reliable water supply. Despite being a niche agri-food product, the Ciaculli mandarin's exceptional sugar content and pleasant aroma have led to increased demand from pastry chefs.
The Ciaculli mandarin is known as 'late' because farmers called it "marzuddu," indicating it ripens in March, later than the earlier "primintivu." However, climate change has led to earlier harvests, sometimes starting in January.
This mandarin originated from a spontaneous bud mutation of the Avena mandarin in the 1940s in the Ciaculli area. It has become popular for its unique characteristics. The Tardivo di Ciaculli is recognized as a Slow Food presidium and is protected by a dedicated Consortium established in 1999. By the end of winter, these 3-meter tall plants produce round, slightly flattened fruits with thin, fragrant, easy-to-peel skin. The mandarins have few seeds, and their sweet, flavorful pulp boasts a high sugar content and pleasant aroma.
The high sugar content of the Ciaculli Mandarin makes it excellent not only for fresh consumption but also for culinary transformations. It can be used to prepare juices, jellies, ice creams, liqueurs, jams, and sorbets; offered online by Alessio Brusadin - Marmellata di Mandarin di Cicaculli. The peel is rich in essential oils, making it suitable for flavoring teas, herbal infusions, and for creating candied fruit, as well as for use in perfumery and cosmetics. Pastry chefs quickly recognized its potential and incorporated it into their creations. Corrado Assenza from Noto, a champion of Sicilian pastry making known for revitalizing local supply chains, utilizes this special mandarin in many of his products. He skillfully transforms it into a cream that he combines with peach jelly, almond fiordilatte, and durum wheat puff pastry.
The Palermo pastry shop Palazzolo uses the ingredient in their pandoro, while the Scirocco ice cream shops in Bologna and Gelato d'Essai in Rome incorporate it into their ice creams. The chocolatiers at Lavoratti flavor their chocolate bars with it as well. Additionally, there are many savory applications, including seasoning for both meat and fish dishes. A new creation is the Raggio di Sole cake, designed by renowned chef Niko Romito for Bindi. This cake features a wholemeal butter pastry filled with Ciaculli tardivo sauce, custard, and toasted almonds. The Milanese company, recently acquired by Sammontana, is not new to this ingredient; they also offer a mandarin semifreddo with a citrus core and sponge cake, a 'Mandarin Inspiration' dessert with a chocolate biscuit base and cream, as well as a sorbet encased in a mandarin shell.
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