Barbajada, a hot and creamy drink, embodies the spirit of a bygone Milan. Once a symbol of elegance and social gathering in the nineteenth century, it has largely faded from memory but still retains a captivating charm worth rediscovering. The name "Barbajada" has a curious ring to it, representing a beverage that warmed the winter days of the Milanese for over a century. Now nearly forgotten, Barbajada is a reminder of a more intimate side of Milan, where the simple pleasure of enjoying a steaming cup was part of everyday life. Named after its inventor, Domenico Barbaja, a young Neapolitan who worked at Caffè Cambiasi near Teatro alla Scala, this drink is a simple blend of coffee, cocoa, and whipped cream. It originated in the nineteenth century when cold and fog enveloped the city for months, serving as a tonic for both body and spirit.
Loved until the mid-twentieth century, Barbajada now lives on in the memories of a few and in the curiosity of those eager to rediscover the flavors of the past. The drink owes its name to Domenico Barbaja, a man whose biography has taken on a legendary status. Starting as a boy and later becoming a waiter, Barbaja evolved into a visionary entrepreneur, owning theaters and restaurants. It was in the Milanese cafés he managed around 1820 that the drink known as Barbajada was created, quickly becoming the emblem of nineteenth-century Milanese cafés. This drink was cherished by both the bourgeois and artists, served hot during long winter evenings at prestigious venues, such as the famous Caffè dei Virtuosi, which Barbaja opened next to the Teatro alla Scala
The popularity of Barbajada spanned the entire nineteenth century, making its way into the living rooms and gatherings of cultured Milan. However, with the onset of the twentieth century and shifting tastes, its consumption dwindled to the point of near disappearance. This decline was in stark contrast to other similar drinks, like the Turin bicerin, which continued to thrive. Barbajada was not just a drink; it represented a social experience. It was customary to enjoy it during breaks between acts of operas at La Scala or in the afternoons spent conversing in cafés. Its bittersweet flavor perfectly mirrored the spirit of a city straddling tradition and modernity. This mixture, which combined cocoa, coffee, and a generous dose of whipped cream, was a luxury accessible to many yet remained refined.
Today, we can view Barbajada as a precursor to modern beverages, closely linked with nineteenth-century Milan. Its iconic status and connection to Milanese culture suggest it may still have the potential for a comeback. Some bars, intrigued by its history and strong ties to the city—such as Vergani, Pavè, and Torrefazione Hodeidah on Via Piero della Francesca—have reintroduced it. A notable example is the limited edition panettone launched by Marchesi for the 200th anniversary, which celebrates the tradition of Barbajada.
Barbajada Recipe
Preparing Barbajada is simple and requires few ingredients, but the secret lies in knowing how to balance flavors and textures. Barbajada can be enjoyed in two ways: hot, in its winter and traditional version, or cold, ideal in the summer months, by simply adding two ice cubes to the mixture.
Ingredients:
60 ml of milk; 60 ml of water; 100 g bitter cocoa; 100 ml of coffee; 60 g of sugar; Whipped cream for garnish
Preparation:
First prepare the mocha and keep aside hot. Then combine sugar and sifted cocoa in a bowl. Then add the water a little at a time and mix to avoid lumps forming. At this point, place the mixture obtained in a saucepan and heat until it boils. Remove from the heat and add the milk and finally the coffees. Put it back on the heat and let it thicken while continuing to stir. Once the chocolate is ready - it takes about 15 minutes - place in a cup and serve with whipped cream and chocolate flakes.
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