Pastry chefs, bakers and chefs reinterpret the classic Christmas dessert by inserting the typical products of their territories into doughs and fillings, from Piedmontese hazelnuts to Sicilian manna, from Tuscan red wine to candied lemons from Capri.
Valle d'Aosta - Piedmont - Liguria
Born in the mountains, from the hands of Maestro Morandin, the interpretation of panettone with an Aosta Valley character, the Panciucco, pays homage to the peasant tradition of celebrating by dipping the bread in wine. With the dried Malvasia La Crotta du Vigneron, a dessert wine from the region, the aromatic sweetness that characterizes it gives the leavened dough the fragrance that is also found in the raisins. In Piedmont since 1922 panettone has rhymed with Galup, delicious in dialect, and the company that bears its name celebrates the tradition with its peach, amaretto and chocolate version in memory of the typical peaches baked with these same ingredients; Albertengo does it with the wine that best pairs with panettone, Moscato d'Asti DOCG, and Piedmont PGI hazelnuts on the icing. In Liguria, the Sant'Agata D'Oneglia oil mill puts its Taggiasca extra virgin olive oil into the mixture of Il Fiore del Frantoio, letting the fragrance intertwine between the alveoli; even maestro Biasetto, despite not being Ligurian, pays homage to the region that smells of oil and basil with his version of savory pesto panettone with confit tomatoes instead of candied fruit.
Trentino Alto Adige - Friuli Venezia Giulia
It takes its name from the place of cultivation, Storo, the local corn from which the flour for true mountain polenta is obtained; and it is with this that the Pasticceria Dolce Peccato, in the historic center of the town, handcrafts the panettone with yellow flour from Storo. It was born in Friuli Venezia Giulia, in Mamm's ovens, and combines present and past flavors in an ideal bridge towards Puglia, where Roberto Notarnicola was born. It is called Bombetta panettone, Friulian ossocollo, Apulian caciocavallo and Parmesan, which make up the unique and very pleasant flavour. The panettone from Pasticceria Mosaico pays homage to the history of Aquileia, and bears its name, without candied fruit but with walnuts and figs as the ancient Romans used for parties. 'I am Friuli Venezia Giulia' is the name chosen by Dolcevita for its savory panettone with speck, onion and dairy cheese. Candied apple, sultanas and pine nuts, flavors of the strudel which for Bottega De Val come together in the dough and between the alveoli of the panettone.
Tuscany - Umbria
It maintains the dough, structure and softness of the panettone, but the Giulebbe from aims to be Paolo Sacchetti's homage to fine Tuscan raw materials: dried figs from Carmignano instead of raisins and walnuts from Val Bisenzio to replace the candied fruit. Just a julep, sweetie, as they say in your area. Beatrice Volta, from pastry shop Come una Volta, is inspired by Tuscan soup and uses the same ingredients to characterize the savory panettone that bears her name, mixing dried black cabbage, bacon and grated pecorino into the dough. Vin Santo and Tuscan red wine, made into syrups, are the protagonists of two versions of Pasticceria Bonci del Panbriacone, which pays homage to the region with alcoholic ingredients and the mocking spirit of the Tuscans. The most typical legume of Umbria, Castelluccio lentils give name and character to the panettone of Pasticceria Polenta which also uses lentil flour in the dough.
Molise - Puglia
You can call it Molise panettone, Pannocchio di Lupacchioli, it stands out from the baking cup and brings the local Fioretto corn flour in its color and flavour. Candied spinster apple, with a snowy color and a sweet, acidic flavour, is the characteristic of the panettone from Gerri Pasticceria which also uses Tintilia, a wine from the native Molise vine, in reduction together with pears and chocolate for another version. In Puglia, the Pancapocollo from the collaboration between Salumificio Santoro and Pregiata Forneria Lenti, the Martina Franca cured meat which is the protagonist of Christmas, is causing a stir. Martinucci Laboratory's Salento panettone is inspired by Lecce coffee with its cream to spread on the slices that smell of coffee and almond paste. From Forno Sammarco an entire line dedicated to the territory, the Panterrone, which ranges from lampascioni to citrus fruits from the Gargano, passing through grano arso and caciocavallo podalico. The use of re-milled durum wheat semolina, traditional in Altamura bread, which Vincenzo Benvenuto also uses for panettone, is incredible.
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