Fashion brands have emphasized quiet luxury in recent years, but Max Mara’s creative director, Ian Griffiths, took a boldly celebratory approach with his latest collection unveiled in Venice on Tuesday evening. Griffiths criticized the prevalence of quiet luxury, remarking, "Quiet luxury has become so pervasive it's almost deafening, with no one making a sound." He continued, "I've always had reservations about the concept of quiet luxury because is it truly quiet to make a statement in head-to-toe camel?" Presented against the backdrop of the Palazzo Ducale overlooking St Mark’s Square, the resort collection prominently featured Max Mara’s iconic camel hue. However, departing from understatement, the collection showcased sequins, brocades, and shimmering jacquard silks reminiscent of the opulent Fortuny fabrics synonymous with Venice, which Griffiths hailed as “the birthplace of luxury.”
Inspired by Marco Polo, the Venetian merchant famed for his travels across Mongolia, China, India, and Africa, Griffiths staged the show on the 700th anniversary of Polo’s death. This served as homage to Venice as “the birthplace of this immense global trading empire [and] the beauty of cross-cultural exchanges that thrive here.” The essence is to craft a contemporary wardrobe,” he clarified, noting, “Venetian style isn’t always as extravagant as perceived.” This vision materialized through mini embroidered shift dresses, precise tailoring, chunky knits, and open-neck shirts featuring sporty necklines, often accentuated at the waist with woven tassel belts reminiscent of the accessories seen in paintings by Venetian masters like Titian and Tintoretto. These pieces were complemented by Max Mara's timeless sweeping camel coats, a mainstay cherished by successive generations of admirers. Griffiths, celebrating 37 years at the 75-year-old Reggio Emilia-based brand, is one of the few designers at luxury fashion houses with such an illustrious tenure and a clear vision for the future. He believes the brand’s future lies in expanding its appeal to a younger audience.
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